Pinar del Rio Cuba: What to do in Vinales, Cayo Jutias & More

I’ve traveled almost everywhere in Cuba: growing up on the island I spent my summers traveling from province to province to discover all of its treasures. In this travel guide I am sharing with you travel tips and secrets about my favorite day tours from Havana: Soroa, Pinar del Rio and more. I’ll tell you all about what to expect when visiting Pinar del Rio, the best restaurants , my favorite places and how to have a great time when you visit. 

Pinar Del Rio

The Pinar del Rio province is located west of Havana in Cuba. The area is famous for producing tobacco, and many of the best tobacco plantations in the world are located there. It’s also known for archaeological records of Cuba’s indigenous people, especially in the Vinales Valley. The valley has been a  World Heritage Site since 1999. Aside from the capital city of the province, Pinar del Rio City, you will mostly find small farm towns and authentic Cuban rural life. A 2 hour drive from Havana will bring you into the heart of the province via the main Havana-Pinar del Rio highway. Cubans usually hitchhike to travel major roads, as public transportation in Cuba is not reliable outside of cities. While driving you’ll see the locals selling fruits and vegetables on the side of the road, fresh from the nearby farms. The fruit and vegetables are organic and delicious, but make sure you wash them! They come straight from the farm and probably still have dirt. 

Vinales Valley

Vinales Valley is probably the most famous area of Pinar del Rio. If you have seen pictures of the Cuban countryside and mountains, you were likely looking at Vinales Valley. The valley and nearby towns have been a popular hangout for locals and tourists alike for decades.

Things to do in Vinales Cuba

Visit the Cueva del Indio

I remember going into the Cueva del Indio (a famous cave of the area) as a child and riding through the cave in a boat while surrounded by stalactites, stalagmites, and aboriginal cave paintings. There are a number of impressive cave formations in Vinales, and they are regarded as some of the best in Latin America. The Cueva del Indio has always been a popular attraction in Vinales,  so expect it to be crowded. You’ll probably have to wait in line to take the boat ride, but it’s a unique experience that’s definitely worth it!

Ride a Horse Near a Prehistoric Mural

The cave isn’t the only thing that Vinales has to offer. The area is also popular for eco-tourism. It’s a fantastic place to hike, climb, bird-watch, ride horses (one of the best things to do in Vinales), and generally be in touch with mother nature. Make sure you seek out the prehistoric mural painted on the side of a mogote (round mountain) and visit some of the farmlands. Don’t miss the experience of talking to the locals. They are very welcoming and friendly, and some of the most down to earth people in the world.

Try a Cuban Cigar

Visit one of the tobacco plantations to learn about the tobacco leaves and how the tobacco grows and is harvest on these authentic farms. Talk with the tobacco farmers, go inside the barns and, enjoy a tour of the area while smoking a good Cuban cigar (just be careful if it’s your first you could get dizzy!) to truly experience the Pinar del Rio culture.

Cayo Jutias Cuba

Cayo Jutias is definitely one of the hidden secrets of Pinar del Rio and Cuba. Not many tourists have been there, so the beach is secluded and maintains a natural, undiscovered feel. Cayo Jutia is a two hour drive from VInales. It’s a bumpy road, but that’s part of the charm of Cuba. You’ll probably want an experienced driver to take you there, as the roads can be a bit confusing. And once you get to the beach… paradise!

Crystal clear waters, surrounded by pristine sand. This is one of the few beaches I have visited that truly looks like a postcard. There are no hotels along the shore to ruin the view. I definitely recommend visiting Cayo Jutia over its more famous (and much more crowded!) counterpart, Cayo Levisa.

Soroa

Soroa was my favorite place in Pinar del Rio to visit as a child. Soroa is currently located the Artemisa province, between Havana and Pinar del Rio. This makes Soroa the perfect stop if you are driving from Havana to Pinar del Rio. The area has a waterfall and a beautiful orchid garden. A short hike will bring you to one of the viewpoints to see the Soroa waterfall. It’s not the biggest waterfall in the world, but a secret cave behind the water makes it truly special. Make sure you do a bit of research, as the water level can be high or low depending on how much rain there has been. Soroa is definitely a local hangout as well, and it will definitely be crowded if you visit Cuba in July and August as the locals will be enjoying their summer vacations in the warm weather.

Las Terrazas

While Soroa was my favorite place as a child, Las Terrazas became my favorite as a young adult. Like Soroa, Las Terrazas is located in the Artemisa province (more specifically in La Sierra Del Rosario) and It’s also a great place to stop while  driving from Havana to Pinar del Rio. I have spent some of the most fun weekends of my life in Last Terrazas Cuba.

There may not be too much luxury, but the real treasures in Las Terrazas are found in nature. Unlike the hot crowded streets of Havana, Las Terrazas is a nature reserve. The breeze and the picturesque small town surrounded by mountains will make you feel more in touch with human life and nature. The town is one of a kind in Cuba. Founded in 1968 as part of a project to reforest the area, in 1994 it expanded into the ecotourism heaven it is today. The local culture is all about protecting and enjoying the natural resources of the area. Even as a Cuban you aren’t allowed to just move there. You have to find a job and a place to fit in within the community in order to live there.

Las Terrazas is a unique place in Cuba, so it’s definitely worth visiting!. You’ll find almost identical orange, blue and white houses nestled in the mountains, as well as local artist shops inviting shoppers to walk in, meet the artist, and see their artistic process. There is so much to do in the area! One of the best zipline adventures I have ever experienced is in Las Terrazas. If you visit in the summer, make sure to beat the heat by heading to the river. There are some amazing coffee plantations in the area, taking advantage of the rich ecosystem to grow delicious coffee. Ruins of French-influenced plantations from centuries ago are just a short walk away from the town. The Hotel La Moka is the only hotel in the area, so you don’t have to worry about where to stay. Don’t forget to go to the Polo Montanez Museum, dedicated to the Cuban singer who rose to stardom around the 2000’s before tragically dying in an accident. Las Terrazas is a place you have to experience for yourself. If you can only visit one place outside of Havana, this is a great choice! 

Best Months to Visit Pinar Del Rio

The high season for tourism in Cuba runs from the end of November through March, as this is the dry season. Hurricane season normally runs from June to November, and May is usually filled with heavy rains. If you are traveling to Pinar del Rio, you might want to avoid doing so in July and August unless you don’t mind very hot and humid weather. During these months, the locals are also often on vacation so places will be more crowded and wait lines will be considerably longer. If you are planning to some of the beaches (like Cayo Jutias in Pinar del Rio or other beaches like Varadero, Santa Maria, and Cayo Largo) I would recommend traveling in June. Yes, it’s hot, but also cheaper because it’s the low season. You also won’t have to worry about dangerous undercurrents in the water, which are more frequent in high/winter season. 

Useful Cuba Travel Tips 

Don’t expect many road signs when traveling in Pinar del Rio or other areas of the countryside. You can definitely rent your own car, but a local driver will get you there faster and will know how to avoid those potholes and bumps.

As a tropical country, there are plenty of mosquitoes in Cuba. While you don’t need to worry about malaria, other mosquito-borne diseases like Zika or Dengue are rare but present in Cuba. I would definitely recommend bringing plenty of mosquito repellent, especially for your Pinar Del Rio trip. Since it’s mostly a rural area, mosquitoes are more common than in the city, especially during the hot summer months. For beach trips, like the one to Cayo Jutia, try to stay away from areas with bushes and trees, especially at dusk. That’s when mosquitoes and other insects are most active and likely to bite!

What to wear in Cuba?

While Cuba is extremely hot most of the time, I advise you to pack one to two long sleeve linen shirts and pants (no jeans, those are too hot!) in addition to your shorts and tank tops. These will be perfect to wear in Cuba, especially when visiting Pinar del Rio and Vinales Valley, where you will want extra protection from the sun and mosquitoes during outdoor activities like riding horses. Most farmers in Cuba wear long sleeves and pants even during the hot summer months for those very purposes.  

Don’t forget your sunscreen! Because it’s near the equator, the sun in Cuba is very strong even during those so-called winter months. I highly recommend re-applying sunscreen several times during the day. The sun in Cuba is particularly strong in the countryside, where you can even get a sunburn sitting in the shade. The sun will find a way of getting to you! 

Do not drink water directly from the tap. Even the Cubans don’t do it at home! We boil or filter the water before drinking. So stick to bottled water!

Tipping in Cuba

Last but not least, Cubans salaries are extremely low for other countries’ standards, around 10 or 20 USD a month, so tips are greatly appreciated! Be generous and the locals will definitely thank you.

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Besitos from Pinar del Rio Cuba,

Laura